me

Speak to me

I landed at San Diego International Airport after 11:00 pm last, by the time I got to my car, got some gas and went to the grocery store I am sure it was Saturday morning.

I have to fly to Indy Sunday afternoon so while I was up I got my surfing stuff ready so I could visit with the Ocean at daybreak.

Surfing is more than sliding down a wave for me these days, it is more about a feeling I get when I am near the water a sense that I am at the right place if only for a brief amount of time.

The Ocean spoke to me today and said listen to Jenifer Black she is the on right path.

The Ocean also said choose not to suffer.

Tourmo last Sunday

no more side bites

AFTER

I had Roper remove the side bites( and put in FCS plugs) from my 9'8" In The Pink so I could ride it as a single fin and perhaps take it on a trip of two.

I put 9' Halo in it for fun, it is very loose with this setup.

BEFORE

POOR SURF: 1-3 ft - ankle to waist high and poor conditions.

Poor Surf is my signal that I will have my local break to myself.

The Parking Lot will be mostly empty except for the local parking crew who seem drink and endless supply of beer.

I am starting to realize surfing is more than feeling a full-on cut back on loose board on a nice set wave, it is more about being one with the water and reflecting about how this vast body of water could even be. And knowing I am the same as Ocean.

Poor Surf, cold water, plenty of space and a setting sun meant a brief moment of simply being and smilling after every wave like it was my first.

New Surfmobile

New surfmobile, more comfort on those long trips for Kay Jackson and it is kid friendly plus it really can carry a few surf stix.

2001 Audi allroad Wagon

Sharky Sharky

'Monster Shark' Chomps Into Great White
9:54am UK, Tuesday October 27, 2009

Big Bite

Huw Borland, Sky News Online

A giant shark that could be up to 20ft long has sent shockwaves across Australian beaches after a great white was nearly bitten in half.

The great white after being savaged at sea (Pic: Courier Mail)



A stunning picture shows a 10ft predator thrashing about with two massive chunks missing on either side of its body, off the Queensland coast.

Experts said its rival may be 20ft (about six metres) long, judging by the size of the huge bites.


I've heard about the big one lurking. Every surfer is always cautious over here.

Surfer Ashton Smith

The great white was savaged after it got snared on a drum line - a baited hook attached to a buoy - near North Stradbroke Island, east of Brisbane.

The wounded creature was still alive when a crew hauled it onto a boat, close to Deadman's Beach.

"It certainly opened up my eyes. I mean the shark that was caught is a substantial shark in itself," Queensland Fisheries' Jeff Krause told Australia's Daily Telegraph.

Swimmers have been warned to stay out of the water near the island.

The attack also worried many at a nearby tourist Mecca - Surfers Paradise, south of Brisbane.


View Shark Shock in a larger map

Surfer Ashton Smith, 19, of the Gold Coast, told the Courier Mail: "I've heard about the big one lurking. Every surfer is always cautious over here."

Drum lines and shark nets are used to defend swimmers from sea predators, but they have been criticised for occasionally trapping migrating whales.

Fisheries minister Tim Mulherin told the Mail that the capture of the bitten shark - and the indication of a larger one feeding in the area - bolstered the decision to keep defences in place.

He added there were no special plans to hunt the attacking shark but contractors had reset the drum lines.

until Friday

I getting on a plane this morning, headed to Indy. It was very nice to bask in the warm weather of San Diego and to see some bigger sets. It has been very small the last few days but I have been having fun on the little peelers. It certainly has better than sitting in a room full of ITIL geeks talking about wrapping content data with ![CDATA[]] and hearing about FDA regulations for failed test use cases.

I will be back to touch base with the Ocean Friday.

dry land

Crunch